Monday 28th September 2006 – SANTIAGO DE COMPOSTELA
Good start to journey – Got a lift with Paul at 0830. Bus OK but long wait at airport for check-in and security. Plane also delayed by 25 minutes. Santiago airport very small, so got out quick and was first onto bus to Santiago city centre. Found hostel very easily then wandered around getting bearings and chilled out for evening. Cathedral of the Apostles is BIG and I loved how the sun changed it’s colour to a golden complexion nearer sunset. Took a few photos of course and even popped in an internet café. Met American, Kathy in room back at hostel so, chatted for a while and bed at just past midnight
Sunny 24C
Tuesday 29th September – SANTIAGO DE COMPOSTELA
Not a bad sleep! The hostel is one of the cleanest and brightest I have ever stayed in…also plenty of good coffee, toast and muffins for breakfast. Walked up to the cathedral and went inside today to inspect the opulent interior. Loads of people swanning about. I observed Midday Mass and witnessed the swinging of the incense container...Wow! Using a pulley system and at least 5 people this thing swung from one side to the other in spectacular fashion…definitely an unforgettable sight. Sat down at a café after for a beer and a large slice of Santiago Cake. After more wandering…went back to hostel for 2 hour siesta. Found a restaurant (O42) and plumped for the Menu De Dia and 3 courses with a bottle of house white all for just 21 Euros. It was most excellent (even though it was basically steak and chips). I think my Spanish is weak but I’m learning quite a bit as not many people speak English!! After a search found a “punk” bar (Bar-Tolo) – had 3 beers – it was comfortable (that’s my excuse) – bed at 0130
Sunny 25 C
Wednesday 30th August - MADRID
Up nice and late at 10pm and a good sleep. Said bye to Kathy (May bump into her in Seville/Granada) and left hostel at 1pm after getting picnic for train. A looong journey at 8 hours….seemed forever. Nice scenery on way though and had couple or 3 naps. At Charmartin station got a taxi to hostel but this took ages because of roadworks/diversions etc – Anyway, another nice clean and quiet hostel and no one in my room! The bloke on the desk spoke very little English. I walked about and visited a rather rustic bar near Santa Ana Plaza. Had a beer and a Tapas (Chorizo sausage) then stopped off for another beer on Santa Ana before bed
Sunny 26C (Santiago)
Warm 27C (Madrid at 1am)
Thursday 31st August – MADRID (AVILA)
Well I think some good memories today!!! Up really late at 11am – Got 10 journey metro ticket and up to Charmartin station…confusion city! Anyway, eventually got return ticket to Avila. What a magical place, although 3000ft above sea level it was still well hot. Cathedral a bit poor and had to pay but city wall walk very good – I think an overnight stay could have been justified especially with the light after 7pm for us photographers!! I asked for directions to the train station and I was understood in Spanish…even though it was just 200 yards away. Back in Madrid and back at hostel my room has been invaded by some Venezuelans and they spoke good English! Went out to Santa Ana Plaza and visited the brewery: Naturbier where I tried all three beers (Wheat, Light Bock, Dark Bock) and ate tapas after tapas – Very friendly atmosphere – took photos and exchanged emails with the bar staff who were a lot of fun! I’ll be back! Wandered around Gran Via/Cuerta area where tons of people (more so than during the day) were milling about.
Sunny 33C
Friday 1st September - MADRID
Right! A busy day in Madrid only…got breaky in the cramped kitchen but siddeled into a “private” area to call mum ;-) Anyway, used metro quite a bit today to get about. Visited El Prado first off and 1.5 hours admiring familiar paintings by Rafael (nice), El Greco (very dark) and Picasso (WTF!) to name but a few. Air-Conditioned throughout! Definitely worth the money as was Real Madrid’s Bernabou Stadium when I eventually found the entrance! The tour was great! Visited the top floor for panoramic view, the “Dug-Outs”, player’s tunnel, changing/massage rooms and finally the museum with its massive trophy room(s) and memorabilia. Bloody hell it’s hot out today but made my way to Palicio Royale to admire this massive building and visited the relatively new cathedral next door which had some lovely stained glass with rainbow sun patterns thrown onto the walls – Got some great shots in here and also some voyeur shots outside. Went onto Calle Major and its Plaza…much bigger than Santa Ana and even better for people watching and cameo photo shots. Took stuff back to hostel and met 2 Americans, a Swede and a colourful Irish bloke. Went out to dinner (after along waltz about again). Visited the traditional Ma Pueblo restaurant – great food and service at a mid-range price. After visited a pub then the wonderful Cerveceria Alemana – lots of wood and panelling and white shirt bow-tied waiters made it a bygone place and good for observing people. Walked back (accidentally!) through the gay district (Cheuchas) quite spectacular!
Sun and heat 38C
Saturday 2nd September – MADRID (TOLEDO)
Visited Toledo on the AVE train (only 20 minutes journey time!!) from Atocha station. Apart from construction work going on around the Alcazar (closed) a beautiful city with plenty to see. Started at the free museum with an excellent courtyard/patio then the cathedral (home of RC in Spain) was both huge and sonic! Even visited a couple of Synagogues in the Jewish Quarter which in their own right were very splendid and photogenic. BTW the train station is the most splendid I have ever seen. Back in Madrid at 10pm…Now I was going to have an earlier night but this of course did not happen as planned. Went out to eat at a Spanish/German restaurant (Edelweiss) which was OK, lots of food (rather too much). Went on for a final beer at Naturbier (Great response with larger tapas and 2 free pints!!). Wrote out some postcards here and observed amongst other things a Scottish Stag Party – all dressed up silly and just “wrong” acting like loons. Spoke to some of them later and all very friendly. Left at 1am and wandered towards Gran Via – the rest is private but I got back to my pit at 6am!!! J
Sun and More Heat 40C
Sunday 3rd September - CORDOBA
Woke at 0930 having just 3 hours sleep which was OK (???). Swallowed some breaky (more orange juice than anything) then made way to Atocha station to catch the AVE fast train to Cordoba – there in no time – but had time to call mum on Train to wish her luck for her op tomorrow. In Cordoba took bus to near hotel and walked rest of way to Santa Ana Hostel which was very nice and cool!! This city is extremely hot with most of the temperature gauges reading between 42-45C!! After unpacking and getting useful and helpful info from the receptionist. Made straight for the Mezquita and what un unforgettable (the 2nd!) structure this is – I must have taken over a hundred pics of those red and white striped arches and different lighting in so many corners. Cordoba is a real tonic after the “party” city of Madrid – things seem much slower, quieter and places close much earlier. Checked email at an Internet Café then walked across river take some sunset shots. Went to eat in an Arabic type restaurant with low circular tables almost lounge like – food was a set menu at 8 euros only – the atmosphere was both surreal and very middle eastern. The waiter even played us some eastern vibes on his Roland a la Banco De Gaia!!
Sun and Extreme Heat 43C
Monday 4th September - CORDOBA
Good Sleep! Up and about at 0930 to go round the Mezquita – this time in the cool, for free and with my 300mm lens. Felt more enchanting this time around! Someone even admired my Nikon (hmmm hm!). Ate breakfast at a small café then went wandering the streets enjoying the paseos and churches round every corner not to mention the narrow streets of the Judeira (Jewish Quarter). At about 2.30pm went for lunch at really nice restaurant (De Pena’s) and had a four course meal for 15 euros – excellent: Salad; Aubergine and eggs; Pork chop and chips; peach with a glass of Blanco. Went back to hotel for a couple of hour’s siesta. More photography in the evening and ate at La Morentes just near Mezquita where tried my first sangria (fizzy and refreshing) then cold soup called Gazpacho (tomato and cucumber) and then fried cod with very Spanish sauce (big!). Very good but pricier…actually went to bed early at 12am
Sun and Heat 41C
Tuesday 5th September - CADIZ
Up quite leisurely at 9am and proceeded to station via bus. Could only get a first class ticket to Cadiz so I did and very comfy too with lots of treats including a snack lunch and beer as well as general pampering service!! Rolled into Cadiz at 3pm and found Casa Caracol 5 minutes from the station. This place is very laid back alright – beds are comfy though no AC, but not cramped and a friendly atmosphere. Walked right around peninsular after eating a dodgy burger at a café … I felt a little uncomfortable having to crap/run to the bog a few times – in the hostel there was a mock wedding involving hostel dog and one of the reception staff – quite bizarre!! Tomorrow is definitely a beach day!! J
Sunny 34C
Wednesday 6th September - CADIZ
Much easier relaxed day! Still feel rough from the hamburger episode (so diving in and out of loos all day). Anyway strolled along promenade to Playa De La Victoria beach and a lovely 4 hours of sunbathing, swimming and sight-seeing (mmmmm!). Shower when got back to hostel (No damn Q this time!) and yes I’m a little sun-burned (The ailments continue). Out with the camera for next 3 hours and Cadiz is indeed very photogenic…strolled around Publico (Poor Quarter) then the Fisherman’s Quarter then along path to the Castillo San Sebastian (Gate locked so nowt much seen!). Must have taken 130 pics so a good session. Later on went to eat at El Rancino 2 and plumped for the Red Mullet which was superb!!!
Sunny 34C
Thursday 7th September – CADIZ (SEVILLE)
Rather noisy and hot last night but got up and got ticket for Seville …. An hour to kill so went to bus station to sus out and get ticket for Tarifa tomorrow…All Set! Got on 1100 train to Seville – god it was hot here again! Just took my time in finding the Cathedral and Alcazar!! The cathedral is huge (biggest in world?), with the Giralda and Patio of Oranges the best parts. From the top of the Giralda fantastic views of white wash houses and the Alcazar, river and Bull Ring shimmering in the heat. Next to visit was in fact the Alcazar which I thought was as close to paradise as one can get in the middle of this (lets face it!) over congested city. The Islamic architecture was breathtaking and I took another 130 odd photos in all today. Not enough time to do Seville justice as that was as far as I got – My Church T-Shirt has white sweat salt stains on it now!! Back to station in plenty time so got sarnie and more water (I drank at least 4 litres of the stuff today!!). Great to have shower when I got back! Went to find somewhere to eat at 11pm but a lot of places were closing but plumped for the excellent Las Flores Frieduria at Plaza Topete and settled down to my fried fish meal at 11.45pm – divine!
Sunny 41C (in Seville)
Friday 8th September – TARIFA
Travel Day to Tarifa! Got on 1130 bus no problem and a comfy 2 hour journey. Tarifa is shockingly good looking whilst initially walking around the town … and there is a fiesta going on!!! Many ladies dressed in the traditional Andalucían dress (very elegant and sassy). Popped into a friendly internet café and then had a superb meal at a Moroccan/Spanish restaurant (Mandaroga). More walking then retired to my excellent value hotel (Las Margaritas) which is ensuite for just 18 euros per night. One obvious thing to note about Tarifa is the wind – a constant 25 mph gust all the time…but it is superbly photogenic and a surprise hit with me!!!
Sunny 28C
Saturday 9th September – TARIFA (TANGIER)
Up early and boarded boat for Tangier at 0900 (it didn’t leave until 0930). Once over there officials sent me back to get ticket stamped by Passport Police on board the ferry (no one said anything about this...someone else was swearing too!!!). Outside met our tour guide and more waiting but once on bus went to far side of town for camel rides (but I declined the tourist thing to do…but took pics!!). Very nice Spanish bloke offered to take photo of me once on the camel but…Then onto Medina then Souk market (passed the great mosque of Tangier). Boy this is definitely Africa (a certain culture shock!). People hated having their photos taken and shooo’ed you away with their hands (so I shot from the hip mostly!!). Ate at a typical Moroccan restaurant: soup, couscous, kebab and a very sweet biscuit thingy finishing with Mint Tea. We had musical entertainment via lute player, fiddler, tambourinist, and tom-tom bloke and had posey picture with Tommy Cooper look-alike and doing the rock thing with his lute! Next was the infamous rug shop where spent a fortune but bartered well and got rug half price (later found I should have paid only a 1/8 of the price!!) also a nice hand-painted plate. BTW The rug is a beaut and great for living room or hanging in bedroom…next was a Spice shop! Only bought some tea and some other herb (for snoring) here. On way back thru Souk had a constant stream of sellers trying to flog anything from Fez’s, Pipes, postcards etc. Al in all a great insight into African way of life but all too brief at just 4 hours! Landed back in Tarifa at 4.30pm Spanish time for more wanderings and more fiesta stuff going on. Ate at Hotel Alameda and another superb meal (Gazpacho, chicken and a bottle of Barbadello white wine)
Sunny 32C (In Tangier)
Sunday 10th September – RONDA
Left hotel at 10 then got bus to Algeciras (11am) then swift change for train to Ronda on the very scenic Andalucía Express. Got to Hotel Royal (Very nice – my posh day!!) then almost immediately out for a walk and yes another Fiesta with outside bars, colour, loud music and more colour. As it happens a bullfight was happening (which I watched a little on TV of). Managed to peer through the main door and grab some close up shots (No Bull!!) of the crowd. Lots of general and night shots today (I think my pics will tell abetter story than my writing?). Ronda is full of people and a lot of US/UK tourists but it has a great atmosphere. Ate at a restaurant where the service was superb and had a bullfighting theme – It was called Sol y Sombre – excellent tuna with a tomato-ish sauce and green beans – went for the fig ice cream cake too!!
Sunny 28C
Monday 11th September - GRANADA
Up at 9am- Breakfast was a block away in a different hotel but very fine. Walked into town to the Bull Ring which was open for visitors so went and joined the hundreds of others to have a look. Got nice pics and you could imagine that bull charging you! Also visited Mondragon House in the old town with its patio’s and exquisite views were the highlight. At 1pm made way to station for 3hr journey to Granada which was a very pleasant journey with lots of hills and field upon field of olives. Found very nice hostel in Granada after half an hours walk from the station. The place is great!! Everything cool!! Went out for far too big a dinner in evening but tried the 6.4% Alhambra 1925 beer (very Belgian) Met girl (Mia) who was in Casa Caracol in Cadiz when I was there the other night!! A very loud and spectacular thunderstorm kept me up most of the night
Sun then cloud (thunder and lightning later) 29C
Tuesday 12th September - GRANADA
Up at 9, bleary-eyed – got bus up to the Alhambra (lazy B!) and walked straight in at 10am – bit cloudy but beautifully cool for the first time in 2 weeks! Visited GeneralLife Gardens, a nice start with well-manicured hedges and patios etc – next was the Alcazar to get beautiful views over Granada (by now the weather was warm and sunny) and especially Sacromonte with its Gypsy caves from the highest point (Torre de la rela). Next was the amazing Nazrid Palaces for my timed visit. Had to try and avoid the mass and annoyance of tour groups all way round – definitely worth the hype and a definite highlight of the day. This and Seville’s Alcazar are absolute gems of Moorish architecture – little wonder that the Spaniards did not destroy these buildings when they reoccupied their country. Finished here at 2.30pm and wandered back down to town where I indulged in a 4 course set meal and a bottle of Alhambra 1925 Reserve beer – nice! Evening went on a Tapas Tour which was hilarious and great fun – A beer and tapas costing just EURO1.50. Met Neil who loves Norwich, Riesa from Finland, Pitor and Jo from Poland and Brian from LA. Went to just 2 bars on the tour (the first by far the best) then ended up in a late night underground bar (with false cellar walls!!) for more booze – bed at 3.30am
Thunder then sun 27C
Wednesday 13th September - GRANADA
Up leisurely at 10.30pm and chilled for most of day although did take a memorable walk around the Albycin to see the graffiti and feel the Arabic atmosphere of this quarter. Then walked further to Sacromonte to see the Gypsy caves close up. Fortunately it was very quiet but such a surreal area with great views towards the Alhambra. Visited the Museum also but only had 25 minutes so rather rushed learning about this interesting quarter. Met a couple from the hostel half way down and stopped for a chat. Said bye to the good friends I met at the hostel then walked to the bus stop…which didn’t come! Met Dave who was also looking for the bus and we flagged own a taxi to share to the airport (EURO10 each). Had chat and coffee before boarding plane and he works in Granada!! Good flight but usual scamp at Stansted. Fortunately bus was late so got on it and home via taxi from Mildenhall at 2.15am!!
Sunny 29C
EMAIL TRAFFIC
28 Aug 06 – Spain*1
Well I made it!
Here I am in the land of Espana. Not too bad thru Stansted security though I had to take my shoes off?? (Yes I believe the way to fly in the future will be to go in the nude!) The usual 20 minutes flight delay but got to my hostel (which is more like a hotel!) at about 7pm
Santiago de Compostela is not soggy after all but sunny and pleasantly warm in a British sort of way...I´ll have to enjoy these next 2 days because further south it will be bloomin well HOT
Lots of people with big sticks about - no not after bashing me up - It´s more to do with the "camino" thing where lots of people do the pilgrim thing and walk miles just to get here and see this HUGE cathedral (The Cathedral of the Apostle)
Speak to you again soon!!
01 Sep 06 – Spain 2
Hello Again!!
Well I´m in Madrid now...wasn´t sure if I´d like this place but it´s actually very clean, fun and you have to be able to stay up all night...well early evening is 1am!!! Thankfully I got up early today (9am) and visited El Prado - nice and air-conditioned - liked the Raphael stuff but Picasso exhibition kind of made me sick!! Also visited Real Madrid´s stadium which was really good value...but all those trophies!! I wonder if they´ll rip down a lot of the Zidane posters ?? Also found a really good Brew-Pub (Naturbier) 5 minutes walk away from my digs - Very good..3 different beers..I´m gonna have to try them all again tonight to see which ones the best ;-)
Yesterday was my first day in Madrid but I got up late and so decided to visit the Fairy Tale Castle city of Avila - absolutely stunning with it´s 88 towers and 6 gates...
See you soon!
03 Sep 06 - Spain 3 - Andalucia!!
I´m here in a cafe just arrived in Cordoba and it´s bloomin 45 celcius according to the temp gauge thingy on this hotel - incredibly hot (and I thought it might be cooler come September..I was wrong)
Anyway left wild Madrid this morning on the high speed AVE train (sleek and fast and smooth) after spending most of the night out on the town finally slumped in my pit at about 6am...enjoyed the delights of seeing some Scottish blokes on a Stag Night completely making idiots of themselves but it was funny. Visited Toledo also yesterday which is another classic Spanish city crossed off the list. I´ve swapped hostels for a hotel for Cordoba so I should catch up on sleep the next couple days - As it was so hot made a bee-line for the Mezquita which is an absolutely spellbinding Islamic Cathedral - My camera was doing overtime!!
Adios Amigos
Nige
06 Sep 06 – Spain 4 – The Costa
After the extreme heat of inland Spain, I am on the Coast at Cadiz then Tarifa for 5 days - What a relief with a bracing sea breeze!!!
The hostel Im staying at here is very cool...they have hammocks on the roof patio and the staff are so laid back that you immediately feel at ease!! The town itself does not have the beauty of Cordoba and is well worn by the sea and has a kind of lethargy about it but it is still elegant in its own right and there are some good beaches (where im headed today) and Seville is not far away via train (tomorrows trip)
Hasta Luego
Nige
08 Sep 06 - Spain 5 - Surf City and Hello Africa
Yesterday was spent in HOT Seville!! In only really had to visit 2 places: The huge cathedral with it´s Patio of Oranges and a stunning Moorish Giralda (tower) - The view from the top was a shimmering white vista of whitewash houses with the Bull Ring and river in the distant and also my next poirt of call just acroos the square which was the Alcazar - This is truly paradise in the middle of an otherwise congested and overcrowded city - The islamic architecture absolutely mind-blowing!! Pictures will reveal all soon. BTW: The seafood in Cadiz was superb and none too pricey 2 nights running (have to save dosh after Madrid!)
Today I left friendly and warm Cadiz and got the comfy bus to Tarifa where I shall take a day trip tomorrow to Tangier in Morrocco. Tarifa itself is in the middle of a Fiesta!! So lucky me has been photographing all and sundry once again... the town is very small but glad i booked hotel ages ago cos there are no rooms in town...the hotel is superb for just 28 euros a night
Luego
Nige
09 Sep 06 - Spain 6 - Tarifa Vs Tangier
Have to apologise for yesterday´s post because I forgot to explain part of the title "Surf City" Well Tarifa is supposedly the Kite-Surfing capital of the world now and there are 100´s of surfing type shops...the big thing you notice is the wind day and night howling thru the Straits of Gibraltar at something like 25 MPH ... it really is windy but fun - The crossing over to Tangier this morning was lengthened by 30 minutes due to the ferocity of that wind!! Anyway, went on guided tour of Tangier and yes it is a very short distance but you know you are in a completely different continent once you get there - We had a bus ride round the city stopping off to ride a camel (I didn´t!), Walked thru the medina and souk markets, ate at a typical morroccan restaurant with live music featuring a lute player, fiddler, tambourine guru and tom tom bloke - It was like watching Tommy Cooper in double vision!! The meal was good but I had far better cous-cous in Tarifa last night....we then went on to a spice shop then a genuine rug and ceramics shop - I shall not disclose how much I spent but I bartted hard!! On the way back to the ferry all of us were pestered hard by mostly kids trying to sell us their wares...I just laughed but and said No but they were very persistant!!
I have to say whilst not the most beautiful spot Tarifa is proving to be the most photogenic plave yet especially with the colours of the Fiesta going on...well only 4 more full days to go and 2 more stops so will no doubt give you at least one or a couple more updates soon.
12 Sep 06 – Spain 7 – Granada
Well this is my last stop before I come home tomorrow late evening...this is the best hostel so far - very welcoming and friendly - everything a traveller could ask for including free internet! I thought I was going to get away with a dry 17 days but last night the heavens opened with a terrific thunder and lightning show which stopped a restful nights sleep....however this morning there was a coolness in the air I had not experienced since Santiago...It was Sooooo nice walking round the Alhambra until this afternoon when it´s got back to the heat again. I think I would love to visit Andalucia again but this time in April or October because it is sooo damn hot!! (not that I´m complaining!). I have one full day tomorrow to spend in Granada and will explore the Gypsy and Moorish barrios (where the Gypos still ive in caves over at Sacromonte!!). It has been great! Thanks for your return emails and see you all back in Blighty very shortly