See my photos for this trip here: http://www.flickr.com/photos/10474528@N03/sets/72157607323285887/

Trip Report:

1. Travelogue:

27th August 2008 to 13th September 2008

Trip Itinerary

27 Aug - HOME/ATHENS
28 Aug - ATHENS
29 Aug - ATHENS
30 Aug - ATHENS
31 Aug - THESSALONIKI
01 Sep - SKOPJE
02 Sep - SKOPJE
03 Sep - SKOPJE
04 Sep - PRISTINA
05 Sep - PRISTINA
06 Sep - SOFIA
07 Sep - SOFIA
08 Sep - SOFIA
09 Sep - SOFIA - NIGHT TRAIN TO ISTANBUL
10 Sep - ISTANBUL
11 Sep - ISTANBUL
12 Sep - ISTANBUL
13 Sep - ISTANBUL/HOME

Wednesday 27th August
Train, bus and plane all OK and to the plan. Finding hostel (Olympus Neos – close to Larissa Station) was easy and it’s quite nice but not the most scenic area of Athens! Met a couple of Aussies in room so had chat (one had a bad cough which later in the trip affected me!!). Went out for a wander, grabbed a hot dog (!) and back at 1am.  Using the metro is most useful and easy in this city! Slightly unsettled but slept OK (but probably snored)

Sunny 35C

Thursday 28th August
Better day – Things just fell into place! Started at Kerymeikos Cemetery then Ancient Agora, Theatre of Dionysis, Zeus’s Temple, and Lykavitos Hill which was not too bad a climb as it looked…it was tough but very hot, and enjoyed a very expensive (6 Euros) Iced Chocolate and plenty of Iced Water (Free!) with Air Con made it worthwhile and the views were breathtaking so stayed a good while. Ate at Bairaktaris in Monastiraki for late evening: Greek Salad, Stifado then Greek Yoghurt with and honey and fruit – nice and traditional restaurant with old photos on walls. Back at hostel talked to Andrew from Poland who is trialing for a 3rd division footy team as a striker. Sunny 35C

Friday 29th August
Much more relaxed day and got up at 11am with better sleep! Got on metro to Piraeus for look around (pretty ugly) and booked ferry for trip to the island of Aegina which was quite nice. Strolled through the narrow streets and ate some tasty stuffed vines and souvlaki, lots of water then back on the flying dolphin (only 15 mins quicker). Back in Athens watched the splendid sunset from the hill opposite the Acropolis which was sublime and got some good shots with the D70. Back to hostel for a surf on the internet then out to eat. Found a quieter restaurant right next to the Roman Forum with the acropolis in the background. Very nice as was the food – Tzatziki followed by a veal special. Sunny 33C

Saturday 30th August
Another day breezing about! Went up to Kifissia (leafy posh suburb to the north) then the Olympic Stadium that was oddly deserted - very few people about.  Its home to one of Athens Footy teams now but just ghosts on this occasion!! Some good photo opportunities though but it was pretty hot so did not hang about too long in the open. Back down at Larissa station got my ticket in advance for Thessaloniki tomorrow…could only get a first class but still relatively cheap! In the evening strolled up to the Acropolis and it’s still a huge building with lots of work going on (and probably will be for decades ahead!). Ate at the wonderful Thanasis Kebap in Monastiriou in the evening – Spicy Cheese Salad and then Kebaps with gorgeous warm Pita Bread and a ½ litre of Retsina. Right now have got a bit of a cough and sniffle, but not too bad! Sunny then Cloud and Thunder – A Small Shower 32C

Sunday 31st August
Train journey nice and smooth and very scenic when it wasn’t raining! Rolled into a sunny Thessaloniki on time. Hotel very close to station – OK – bit grim and sharing with another who was asleep the whole time I was there so never spoke! Anyway, went out for a stroll with camera for some evening shots – sat by the White tower and got loads of good stuff (the old sailor and sunset type shots). Also visited Agios Dimitrious, which is Greece’s largest church. Thessaloniki is a real melting pot of cultures with a totally different feel then Athens…it’s definitely more Balkan. My cold is a bit of a pain now!  Went out to eat in evening…lots of noisy bars but found a nice restaurant which was not Greek but Italian! The pricey risotto was fine though. Bought train ticket for tomorrow which was just 11 euro’s to Skopje.
Rain between Athens and Thessaloniki – Fine on arrival 28C

Monday 1st September
As train for Skopje leaves at 1615, had plenty of time for more sight-seeing. First off went for breakfast at a rather posh quayside bar (Kitchen Bar) which was really good…then to the nearby Photography Museum, then the White Tower though that was closed this day so went on to the truly excellent Archaeology Museum which combined with the Byzantine Museum made for a very cultural couple of hours!! Back via Ani Polo’s maze of streets to the hotel to pick up bags. At the station the train was 1 hour late but spent some time talking to a kilted scot from Southampton (ready for Scotland vs Macedonia game). Once on train and an hour down the track spent 2 hours at border crossing for god knows what. In my compartment met nice Italian girl (Alessandro) and an American contractor working in Pristina. A long journey in the end but got to the hostel via a “friendly” taxi driver (who charged me 5 euro’s when I could have got there for 1!!!). Hostel had no number, street name was missing so wouldn’t have found it any other way!!  Stayed in for night and hostel is a very quiet chilled out place … not many residents. Had a glass of Rakia courtesy of the owners, used internet then bed at 1am. Sunny afternoon 31C

Tuesday 2nd September
Up at 10am…breakfast basic but OK. Very laid back this hostel and nice and quiet! Started walk of town at Kale Fortress (not much to see but good views over the city and Mount Vodno), then Carsija (Old Town). People very friendly and breaking backs to explain and show me things…visited 2 mosques and the priest there explained everything I could wish for, so got his photo also. Looked around the colourful bazaar and prayer times at the mosques were amazing (a very Middle Eastern atmosphere…you could hear everything amped up in the streets). Later in evening ate at Dab Pivinca which was probably the most expensive place to eat in town but still twice as cheap as Greece! Food very good too. Got back to hostel just before a heavy thunderstorm (not much rain though!). Sunny – Late Thunderstorm 32C

Wednesday 3rd September
Today got a taxi to Matka Canyon Lake – very cheap – I got fed up with waiting for bus! The place is a manmade lake with a dam at one end…potentially a very touristy attraction but today it was deserted and wonderfully peaceful. I tried to scramble up the hillside for better views but the going was too tough. Caught bus back to Skopje outskirts and walked from there which was hot, stopped in a shop where the shopkeeper had obviously never seen a “tourist”. Later got a taxi halfway to the summit of Mt Vodno – A bloody long walk back but worth it for a close-up of the Millennium Cross and the Panorama of the city as dusk fell. Finally got back down at around 9.30 pm and went to eat at a lovely Macedonian Restaurant called Makedonia Kojle- Had 3 traditional courses with 2 beers for just £8. Sunny 33C

Thursday  4th September
Up and out of hostel by 10am and walked to Bus Station for the trip to Prishtina – exciting stuff!! Seemed very easy to get through the border, simply asking what I was doing (Tourist was the answer!). On way had an entertaining chat with a Dutch couple Robert and Simone who were just visiting and then coming straight back (just to say they visited Kosovo). They only had 20 minutes so not much time for sight-seeing!! I took a (expensive at 7 Euros!!!) taxi straight to Velania Guesthouse a good 2 miles away. Met 59 year old Israeli guy Shlomo outside so chatted and hung out for the rest of the day getting lost and eating very cheap food. Before that I suggested we visit Gracanica Monastery (in a Serbian enclave town). Taxi driver got us there very cheaply and the place was fascinating and very heavily guarded by KFOR. Had a chat with an Irish soldier on duty and he couldn’t believe we were “tourists”. He described the place as a “mafia” type place!!  The monastery itself was very small but a joy to look inside…apart from a couple of gypsies outside it was trouble-free. Before heading home we ate at a Serbian Café very cheaply again before finally “flagging” down a bus and riding back to Prishtina for 20 pence. Sunny 32C

Friday 5th September
The day was spent touring Prishtina and taking Photographs (brilliant place for Photography) even though I was feeling under the weather with a stomach bug and that persistent cold. Visited the Unfinished Orthodox Church, The totally ugly National Library, and UNMIK HQ, the NEWBORN independence monument, the museum (pity most of the items are still in Belgrade probably never to return), more mosques, the bazaar and the old town. Very different to what the “west” is like: awful pavements, rubbish drivers, ugly monuments, very soviet style architecture etc. Let’s hope the city is NEWBORN soon! Stayed in for the evening and chatted to Andrew from Slovakia (working here for a month or so), surfed on the internet and managed to eat a Bounty and some cheesy bread!! Sunny 32C

Saturday 6th September
A travel day first and foremost…got very cheap taxi to the Bus Station with the driver very curious and friendly talking all the time (and a better driver!!). Got on bus easy enough to Skopje…pretty uneventful though stop at Macedonian border always seems longer than needed. Got bus ticket to Sofia straight away and boarded bus on time…journey long but fairly scenic and got to Sofia 2 hours late (for Balkans probably early!). Arrived at Hostel at around 10pm and very nice and cozy it is too. Went for walk downtown – very impressive cathedral and the city is big but quite compact. I did eventually find a Brew-Pub (Ale House) on the off chance so had a good litre of the local stuff – not bad just refreshing really. Sunny 34 C

Sunday 7th September
Gosh it is hot! Very nice breakfast of traditional Bulgarian sweet and our pastries and good coffee…got chatting to Marisa and Earl. They were Americans here just on a break and to go to the dentist which is very cheap here in Sofia!!! So a tour of the city today with the camera but really hot…started at Nevesky Cathedral the Agya Sofia Church and the flea market outside selling all kinds of soviet memorabilia. The gorgeous Russian Church was next – very ornate…I paid a few levs to take photos inside as looked like there was a christening going on. Some nice statues (one of a trabant!!) then sat in the shade at a café for a long cold beer. Walked past the mosque then visited the Roman Church in the middle of hotel precinct!! Quite bizarre, but a lovely old building. Next was a walk past the Theatre where some outdoor show was going on with Bulgarian dress and music. Walked back through the main thoroughfare with its yellow bricked road and noticed some very ornate rooflines!! Also noticed more of those kilts about and as it was near evening shot more pictures of the cathedral as the light was so good. More light refreshments in the form of the other Brew-Pub which wasn’t open late last night but here it was and 4 different beers on so tried a couple. Sunny 37 C

Monday 8th September
Time to walk further out today and some of the parks – plenty of ugly (but fascinating) monuments abound…really walked a lot today and got around some fine examples of graffiti also and really odd monuments…ice cream was a necessity too! Met up with Marissa and Earl late afternoon and went to the brew-pub for another couple and took some photos of the huge beer hall which was surprisingly very quiet! Strolled about with them for a while going back to the same places as yesterday and just having a good time. Went back to the brew-pub for a meal later and it was very wholesome and good and had a fair fill of beer. Sunny 35 C

Tuesday 9th September
Hung around with Marissa and Earl all morning so went off to see the Archaeological Museum which was very interesting…took a break from the D70 and I just had my little Sony for company. Went to a small café where had fun ordering a plethora of snacks (very cheap) whilst??? went off for his dentist appointment. Early evening went to catch night train at Sofia station…of course it was late and I was victim to a helpful guy who showed me where the train would turn up (just where I had come from!!). I should have known better but he asked for money (I said bugger off) – Found a few people later who were catching the train and chit-chatted until the train arrived a full 3 hours late. It was mad but efficient. Very warm so hardly any sleep I thought and so bumpy and rough but I did sleep somewhat well. Out we got at the border to get a visa and hang around for another 2 hours but it was fun as got to know plenty of travellers including a Dutch couple who were very funny. Passports back and last (very bumpy!) leg to Istanbul. Sunny 32 C

Wednesday 10th September
Into Istanbul station and it’s raining! At least it is warm rain…decided to walk to hostel anyway as it was warm rain (well drizzle) and found it easy enough – Bauhaus seems really well run and I’m in a 6 bed room (though bed light does not work)..free internet. Met Jens in there and got talking, he’s well into photography so stuck together for the rest of the day (and the rest of my time here!). Lunchtime it was sunny again so ventured out first to Hagia Sofia and spent an hour with our cameras there (He has a new Canon DSLR so really egging each other on with the photos!!). Ate at an outdoor café…pretty food prices and quality and service good. Onto the Basilica Cistern which is an underground well – very colourful and photogenic then out through central parts and towards Blue Mosque (there is so much going on and such a photogenic wonderland!). Shoes off and in we go…it is fascinating and a bit of a culture shock (even after Macedonia and Kosovo!). Snuck a few photos of the prayer sessions etc. After spent a good 2 hours just people watching and taking photos…down the back streets was most rewarding with lots of things going on. Back up towards Blue Mosque for some twilight photos. What a great place this is! Jens and I stopped at the pub opposite for a couple of cold lagers and also the rooftop bar for one before I thought time for some well-earned kip. Rain Showers then Sunny 25 C

Thursday 11th September
Jens and I grabbed a quick breakfast then headed for Chorra Church (via the tram). Fascinating murals all around and because it was early it wasn’t too crowded with tourists. Next stop was across the river to the Galata Tower and climbed the steps to the top for the magnificent view of the city and across the Bosphorous. Back across the bridge seeing all the fisherman we noticed an Istanbul specialty, so for £1.50 we grabbed a fresh caught fried fish sandwich – it was divine and more than a snack! Now it was time to board a boat for a trip up the Bosphorous. The ferry went as far north as Anadulu Kavagi close to the Black Sea entrance and splendid views. On the return leg the sun was much more in our favour so yet more photos. As soon as the ferry stopped we got on the boat to Kadikoy across on the Asian side and timed it so the sun was just setting so got some good shots of the classic Istanbul skyline of silhouetted mosques. We managed to get a table at the very popular Ciya restaurant and whilst pricey the food was just great. Sunny 24 C

Friday 12th September
Met Jens at breakfast once more and we headed off to the Grand Bazaar – This is a huge place with a labyrinth of lanes and stall after stall selling carpets, silk anything! I did buy a few things like a couple of silk scarves and a mat (successfully bartered down by a good 60%). It was fun! So much going on too…one of the best sites was seeing a group of cats all huddled together sleeping over each other on a chair!!! Took in the sights around Istanbul University (saw the old man who had had his same pitch for 50 years …. Apparently he’s famous! Then took in Princes Mosque, Suleiman Mosque, Yeni Cami and the Spices in the Eqyptian Bazaar (wow!). Of course got a few packs of Turkish Delight too! Also took the Tram up to Taksim Square to see the modern side of Istanbul and walk up and down narrow streets in Galatasaray. Went to top of 360 Degree Restaurant which had an awesome view of the city. Ate at restaurant on bridge  and a few drinks at the bar near the hostel to finish with. Sunny 25 C

2. Email Traffic

28th August 2008 - I Made It!

Of course I did and the weather is awful...I did have a fear there would be rain and wind but no, It's just Sunny and Hot (sorry to rub it in)...anyway good flight and found hotel fine and am settled in now. Today did most of the old stuff like Roman/Ancient Agora, Sacred Way then Theatre of Dionysis, Zeus's Temple, really liked some "controlled" graffiti in Plaka then Lykavittos Hill (pardon my spelling?) which was superb for views of Athens (and a hot and sweaty walk) but had a very expensive Iced Chocolate at 5 bloomin quid but it was nice and there was AC and they gave me unlimited Iced Water (Anyway beer was 7 quid!!!). Now going out to find a taverna and get some proper Greek grub

30th August 2008 - Itchy Feet

Today has been another hot one, but now it's turned very humid and thundery...not much rain...looks more for the inland hills (fingers crossed?).

Yesterday visited Aegina about an hours boat trip from Piraeus - quite nice to get away from hustle and bustle of Athens for a couple of hours.

Today went up to the Olympic Stadium which looks fairly sad and is not open to the public but you could stroll round and take pics...then inevitably went up to the Acropolis this evening (I think it has another 40 years renovation?).

Tomorrow I head north for Thessaloniki for one night and most of a day so looking forward to somewhere different and it's all unknown territory from this point on!

1st September 2008 - Balkans Way

Visited the excellent archaelogical museum in Thessaloniki this morning which - and I don't normally enjoy museums - was fascinating! All that gold and probably more important than Athens. Also visited the Museum of Photography in a converted warehouse near the docks.

The train to Skopje was meant to leave at 4pm but left at 5pm and then we stopped at the Macedonian border for what we were told was 20 minutes...2 hours later it left. Got to know an American bloke and a nice Italian girl quite well during the protracted length of the journey.  Anyway have not seen much of Skopje yet as I got a taxi straight to hostel which is on a unmarked street and an unmarked house...these Balkans I guess have a different way. Just chilling out now with a glass of Raki - potent balkan beverage

4th September 2008 - Kosovo

Whilst Macedonia has some of the most beautiful countryside anywhere in Europe; Pristina in Kosovo has some of the leariest drivers I have ever witnessed - they are crap !! so are the potholed roads. Apart from that its so different from anywhere else in Europe (it's more Middle Eastern really!). So food and beer are very cheap and good, the roads have new names, but the map has not changed amd to further complicate things most roads have their names missing altogether - it makes for a navigational nightmare, but a lot of fun. The big plus is people are so friendly and will bend over backwards to help you!!

I and another took a short taxi ride to the Serbian town of Gracanica and amazed at the heavily guarded Monastary there. I talked to an Irish soldier who was equally amazed I was a "tourist" from Britain :-)

7th September 2008 - Sofia So Good!

Sofia is beautiful but really really hot at 37 degrees today -- water water water! I think the museums will be a good idea tomorrow if the temperature is the same

The hostel is called "The Rooms" and it is in a quaint cobbled street and the house is tiny - the breakfast room is at the end of a small hall and makes it easy for conversation at breakfast time - I keep seeing those kilts around and one is staying here (the scotsman, not just his kilt).

I found by pure chance a nice brewery pub tonight and had a litre of very fine beer for just 2 lev (85p!!!).
My table even had it's own tap but I controlled myself very well, now if I go tomorrow.....(and Tim, for your information they played Whitesnake's greatest hits!!!

10th September 2008 - West Meets East

Just arrived via the night train to my final destination Istanbul .... and its raining !!!

The night train was very long at 13 hours but I had a sleeper so got some comfortable sleep before having to get out to get a Turkish visa at the border which was more like a circus than anything....simple things have to be done with Nuclear Physics complexity!

When it looks dry I'll go and investigate but my hostel is right near the Blue Mosque which looked awesome even in the drizzle

12th September 2008 - Home Soon :)

Off to the Grand and Spice Bazaars today so I can spend all spare cash on hopefully small thıngs :) Istanbul has been amazing - great people and great food (you could get a freshly caught grilled fish sandwich by the quay for a mere 3 lira)

Whole trip has been a fantastic challenge so next year is already being planned...rıght now ive seen enough mosques and rugs to last a few months! :)

Fly back tomorrow...hopefully see some of you on Sunday for Tims Crawl!!